Few trips have given us a better approach to the country and its people than Madagascar. No doubt because we had chosen to travel by the means we encountered on the spot. On foot to begin with, then by train, by pirogue and of course by bush taxi. A six-week challenge, sometimes trying but absolutely exciting, which opened up access to the remote Zafimaniry valleys as well as to the fishing villages of the south-western coast, which are inaccessible by car. On the paths as well as on the waves, the slow journey conquered us. We discovered a beautiful and welcoming but also disadvantaged country. A large number of NGOs are trying to overcome social and environmental shortcomings, and meeting them has given us a taste for commitment.
(For greater viewing comfort, double-click on the gallery to open it in full screen mode)
Slow travel is undoubtedly the most respectful way to discover a country… and the one that most impresses the spirit! Because it gives time to social relations and contact with nature, without destroying them. A seven-day hike took us to the beautiful Zafimaniry valleys, where we had some very challenging but incredibly rewarding experiences of authenticity.
It is in the wooded and isolated mountains of the south-east that the Zafimaniry people live. This people, grouped together in small villages along the valleys, is renowned for its wood craftsmanship, which is classified by unesco as part of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity. However, intensive deforestation due to slash-and-burn agriculture puts these practices at risk.
The remoteness of the villages and the lack of roads make it difficult for Zafimaniry children to access schools. Various associations are trying to compensate for the government’s shortcomings and recurrent political instability by building small classrooms and providing school supplies.
According to UNICEF, a quarter of Malagasy children of primary school age do not attend school.
Built under extremely difficult conditions during the colonial era, the Pangalanes Canal was intended to exercise better administrative and military control on the east coast. Many Malagasy people died here in order to connect the rivers, lakes and ponds of the region. This alternative route to road construction or delicate navigation is nowadays mainly used by small pirogues to transport food and goods between the various villages settled in the surrounding area. These traditional boats dug into the woods and propelled by the force of arms are the charm of the region.
A few days by pirogue on the Pangalanes canal gave us access to the small villages scattered along its banks. Above all, it is an opportunity for special contact with its inhabitants and especially with the children, who are always very intrigued by our presence.
It took 17 hours to connect Manakara to Fianarantsoa on Madagascar’s only passenger train. It must be said that this 163 km long line passes through 17Â stations! These are not simple stops, but a real effervescence to trade, sell victuals and above all load and unload goods, an activity that sometimes requires up to almost an hour of intense activity. With a single track, the train makes a two-day round trip and is the real economic centre of the region. It is the opportunity for us to enjoy this incredible colourful and dynamic atmosphere.Â
The extent of begging and child labour is particularly high in Madagascar where parents in precarious situations rely on their children’s income…
Contrary to what we might think, tourists can have perverse effects on this problem. Thinking of helping them, they are more likely to favour their businesses or give them money, food and gifts. However, this is all the more reason for parents to send their children to the street rather than to school, which in the long run could help them to cope better.
It is better to support associations that work to support underprivileged families and the schooling of street children, such as “graine de bitume” which we met in Tana and which does a remarkable work.
Endemic species of Madagascar, the lemurs are a real pleasure to observe in the wild. The best known are the maki catta, unfortunately it is estimated that there are only about 2000Â individuals left in the wild. They are therefore listed as endangered by the IUCN and are part of the list of the 25Â most endangered primates in the world …
It is true that it is very difficult to find a trace of them outside the country’s nature reserves… Except for the few captured for illegal trade or their attractiveness to tourists. It is up to us not to encourage these practices!
The 5 days spent aboard sailing pirogues, from Mangily to Monrondava, were undoubtedly the most memorable of our trip. Waiting for a light breeze to propel us, the long days sitting in the bottom of these small traditional boats feel like eternity. Except during the turbulent passages at the mouths of the rivers, where everyone holds their breath while crew members do not hesitate to get into the water to consolidate the side floats as much as possible.
Sailing on the south-east coast also means being able to access small fishing villages. No roads have been built on this side and only a few paths connect the villages to each other during the dry season. Pirogues, or even magnificent wooden dhows, are therefore the best means of locomotion and subsistence for them!
Many small villages are located on the banks of the beautiful Tsiribihina River, which flows into the Mozambique Channel. Despite the presence of crocodiles which owes its name to it, life takes place around its red waters. You go around in a pirogue, you fish in it of course, but you also wash and do your laundry and dishes in it, when it is not just the children who bathe at nightfall. Crocodiles are fearful animals and their numbers are tending to decrease due to their hunting, so incidents remain rare…
The heavy rains that cause the land to run off make the water brown and laden with sediment. However, the country’s massive deforestation is exacerbating the phenomenon and causing accelerated land erosion. While trees anchor the soil and absorb the rain, their disappearance also increases the risk of drought and flooding.
Today, only 10% of primary forests remain in the country…
While these animals are usually solitary, locusts sometimes form huge swarms that darken the sky. When they congregate in large numbers, they can cause immense damage to rice crops and are a real scourge!
When the group is smaller, it is mainly an opportunity for the children to try to catch some of them to serve as meals…
Undoubtedly one of the best known sites in Madagascar, the baobab tree alley deserves its attractive side. Its magnificent endemic trees are the remnants of a once dense forest that surrounded them. The charm that emanates from it is bewitching if you take the time to appreciate the serenity of the place…. What tourist cars sometimes forget.
Whether you are a believer or not, attending the mass given by Father Pedro in the city of Akamasoa is a particularly touching experience. This man, who created the Akamasoa association and who has been dedicating himself entirely to it for more than 30 years, has accomplished an incredible work. In an effort to help the destitute populations on the outskirts of the capital, he now offers housing, work and schooling to thousands of families in difficulty.
The serenity of the place contrasts with the slums of Tana and will mark this encounter in our memories.
Antananarivo
